May 11, 2009


We took a late morning train to Regensburg an hour from Nuerenburg after deciding we could handle the rain.  It was only sprinkling - nothing to speak of.  Still the sky was heavy and threatened some serious weather.  

We headed straight for the Cathedral of St. Peter, a Catholic church in the midst of mostly Protestant churches in the region, and the central point of practice and pride for the people of Regensburg.  This cathedral was also under renovation and we were unable to see about half of the ceiling.  I watched a workman climb the scaffolding to the top where he would walk the upper platform to do his work, and it took him a good six minutes just to get up there.  It's high.  The stained glass windows, of which I have no decent pictures, are from the 1300's.  Very old windows with memorable blues and reds.  Numerous tombs of former bishops are in the cold, dark basement.  I'm sure the dead don't care, but it's hard to think of being deposited in such a lonely, forgotten place.  Of course, the whole earth is littered with dead bones under my feet wherever I walk, but that feels happier than the rigidity of being sealed in a marble tomb. 

We ate lunch in a restaurant facing the cathedral and you can see our lookout window.  Time went by very quickly and we took afternoon tea/coffee at the oldest coffee house in Europe built in 1686.  After lunch, I discovered I had lost my hat.  We searched everywhere but couldn't find it.  I did find a very nice leather cap left in a pew in the cathedral, but I left it behind.  We found ourselves in a hat shop, a rather famous one that makes hats for the pope and the cardinals.  A seasoned sales woman suggested I buy a rather large hat to improve on the appearance of my height.  Since I've a small head she felt I needed a large hat.  Like many people in Germany, she thought I was just getting beyond chemotherapy.  At first I decided on a red cap, but then opted for a cotton beret which would work better in spring and summer.  She said to Friederike that after all I'd been through, I deserved both of them.

We didn't eat dinner in Regensburg.  The chocolate and apple streudel during coffee break tied us over for a simple take out back in Nuerenburg.  Feet weary and satisfied, we made ready to leave Nuerenburg the following morning.